Welcome to Ecuador

Much has happened since we have updated you last. We left Lily, continuing north to Pacasmayo and Mancora. We had our first car malfunction in some time--a gas leak. But, without too much trouble it was fixed with a little bit of handy work from Iain’s end of things. We were told that the best restaurant in all of South America was located in Mancora (according to friends and South American adventurers Naomi and Paul) but it was closed when we were there. We spent the night in little Zorritos in a Hospedaje with the aim to reach the Ecuadorian border early in the morning. The Aguas Verdes and Huaquillas border has the reputation of being the worst border crossing in all of South America (according to Lonely Planet and other various internet sites, blogs, and forums). We decided this was all a bunch of bologna after we passed through, but other travelers have confirmed negative reports since we crossed over. Thankfully for us, this was one instance that proved to be very helpful in having our own vehicle. The shadiness seems to arise out of the need to take taxis and exchange money. One strange thing however was the trying to find customs (or Aduana in Spanish) to get everything sorted with the truck. After passing through immigration we had to drive about 4 km into Ecuador into a different town to get our official documents allowing us to drive in the country. It took us awhile to get there, thinking, “No this can’t be right…we’re driving in Ecuador…we must have passed it…this doesn’t make sense.” Literally this place was in the middle of nowhere, and not at all near the actual immigration office. Once we finally got there, we had to make a few trips into a nearby town to get new insurance and try and find a notary. After a few frustrating hours we had got everything sorted and were back on the road headed for Guayaquil.


The first things we noticed about Ecuador was: 1) the high humidity resulting in a constant state of perfuse sweating 2) bananas 3) plants and green things everywhere! We boogied along all day and made it into Guayaquil hassle free and found a nice room at Hostal Suites Madrid. The next day we got down to business trying to sort out options for getting to the Galapagos Islands. Our car trade idea was shut down pretty quickly, so we decided we better just splurge and spend the money to get there. There are tour offices in Quito and Guayaquil selling all-inclusive cruise packages over to the islands, but we decided to fly to Puerto Ayora on Isla Santa Cruz and try and find a cheaper last-minute boat ourselves. That way, we were free to explore on our own and run around as we wished. It was all very easy: we booked our flights independently with TAME airlines and flew out the next day. We searched around for a few hours looking at different cruise options and itineraries in Santa Cruz and decided on a 5 night trip to the northwest area. We think we got a good deal, but will have to experience it all before making the final judgment call. There are many, many different boats ranging from ‘tourist’ class to ‘luxury’ and we opted for ‘first-class tourist.’ We definitely think we could have got a luxury boat on a different itinerary for the same price, but our selected route was a little harder to find. This particular route was our number one pick because it will take us to islands we are unable to do by day-trip and we will visit Fernandina which hosts the most species on one island.

Baby tortoises at the Charles Darwin Research Center

While we’ve been waiting to hit the deck we have visited the Charles Darwin Research Centre to give the very famous Lonesome George a visit. George is the last remaining turtle of his species. The poor old fellow has been living on the island since 1972 and researchers have been attempting to breed George for 39 years. In 2000 the females he shares his pen with finally got pregnant but sadly the eggs were not viable. Another day we visited Rancho Permiso to see more tortoises in their natural land living large. They were amazing gigantic creatures and a cool sight to witness up close and personal. After finishing your visit we explored some nearby lava tubes which are underground tunnels. Walking through them was a fantastically refreshing break from the scorching sun.

Locals at the fish market in Puerto Ayora

Marine Iguanas on Isla Santa Cruz 

Megan spying on a lazy beast

These tortoises can live up to 120 years!

Megan waiting to say hello.

Lava tunnels

Tight squeeze

We also decided to go diving at one of the popular spots in the area called Gordon Rocks (also recommended by Naomi). We didn’t think that I would be able to go since I had never gone diving before, but our tour company was able to take me and one other new diver on a ‘discovery dive’ while the other experienced divers were taking a break. Iain saw some awesome marine life: manta rays, eagle rays, white-tipped reef sharks, tropical fish, lots of turtles, and the most impressive…a group of hammer head sharks! I on the other hand, saw fish and one turtle! Both myself and my Canadian new-be partner had equalizing problems and only got down to 10 m without the other person going up. We were a pair of yo-yos bobbing up and down. This must have been a bit frustrating for the dive instructor who was trying to keep us at an equal depth. Overall I had a good time when I wasn’t throwing up over the side of boat (99% of the time). I also went to the doctor today to give the ol’ ears a check-up (I was feeling a familiar discomfort), and it turns out I have another ear infection. This news was actually was a bit of a relief since hopefully next time I try diving it will be a bit easier on the ears once the infection is gone.

Megan's first turtle encounter

Iain chasing after a sea turtle

A school of Hammer Heads

The sea turtles didn't mind us at all. There was always one in sight during the dives.

Megan swimming with a school of fish

  

A close up of a tranquilo Hammer Head shark

More Hammer Heads

White-tipped reef shark

Tonight we will hop aboard the Aida Maria for the next 5 days and look forward to visiting more unique islands of the Galapagos.

Tsunamis and 'Poonamis': The Peruvian Surf Experience

What happened to going to Asia? We blew right past it, looking for the best surf stop that we could settle into for a few days. Continuing north turned into a last minute decision that we should spend the night in Lima (population 8.5 million!!!!). Fortunately for us, we drove into posh and pretty Miraflores unscathed although the traffic was insane. We later heard of a group of Australian guys getting pulled by the traffic into the dirty depths of the city, getting their surf boards robbed, obtaining dog bites (which later meant rabies shots) and hiring a juice selling man to be their body guard to keep their rental safe while guiding them to the panamerican highway. Thankfully none of those things occurred although we did have our first police ‘incident’ the next day. Driving out of Lima was a relatively simple task since Iain google mapped our route, memorized landmarks and has a pretty awesome sense of direction. Once we got onto the multilane highway we were quickly pulled over by the police. The old fart looked like a dirt bag from the beginning and told us we had committed a few infractions. Firstly, he tried to tell us we weren’t allowed to change lanes…then he accused Iain of not using lights (which were on the whole time), then say that it was illegal to have tinted windows (which is also untrue), and finally saying our paperwork wasn’t valid.  He told us the price for all our illegalities was 200 soles—a ridiculous price. In the end, we told him our hostel told us not to carry much cash because there were a lot of robberies in Lima and that if he would kindly escort us to his office we could pay with visa. They didn’t like that very much, but were happy with 10 U.S. dollars, 10 soles, but didn’t want the 4 U.S. one dollar bills. That was it—we’d been swindled by the police for the first time in South America! There was something very unsettling about accepting that the police force in unreliable and shady. Thankfully, while continuing the drive north that day, we were pulled over several other times and no one else scammed us. We spent the night in a tiny beach town of Tortugas.

Megan catching a wave in Huanchaco

Iain surfing in Huanchaco 

The next day we went through Trujillo and on to Huanchaco. We shopped around for a suitable place to park the car and sleep and ended up discovering Surf Hostal Lily We ended up liking Lily so much we stayed for awhile. Huanchaco is a nice size town and had a bay perfect for learning as well as a good place for Iain to surf. For eight dollars a night we were able to park and sleep in our car, have access to internet, bathrooms, showers, the kitchen and common places.  They also have a shaper (surf board maker) on-site, and have great deals on board rentals and equipment. We rented me a longer board and I immediately started having more success on it. The hostal has also been great for us to meet more people and finally relax into the routine of surfing, sleeping and eating. A small crew of guests came together at Lily that resulted in fantastic group meals and surf excursions.

Kelly and Iain making pancakes for the Lily crew

Board repair from a Tofino ding

Sunset sessions in Huanchaco

While at Lily, we endured an event that will surely be remembered. This event was coined as the ‘Poonami’—similar to a Tsunami, but instead of water there was poo. To explain more clearly, there was a problem with the sewage system the day following Carnival, and a flood occurred in the whole backyard area of the hostel. The ‘poo water’ kept rising, and passing in certain areas was difficult. It was so extreme, the smell was practically unbearable and people needed to take refuge in alternate rooms. The problem was not only isolated to Lily, but turned out to be an issue throughout the city. It was even rumored that the Mayor’s residence became flooded. It took about two days to clear up the problem, and since then it has been discussed and remembered as an important historical event at Lily. 

The ‘Poonami’ likely contributed to the illness that occurred afterward.  People started dropping like flies around the time of the poonami from stomach upset and vomiting. Last week I started getting sick mid-surf, threw up once in the water and then spent about 7 hours vomiting approximately every 20 minutes. The worst part of the virus was that we were sleeping in the car, the best part was that we had a pot I could use to be sick into. Luckily for me the grossest/ most uncomfortable part of it was over by the following morning, and with the help of Iain, gatorade, and maintaining a horizontal position I got better pretty fast.

The real kicker with the flu was I was also combating an ear infection from a few days before. We ended up having to go to nearby Trujillo to see a doctor that reported I had an infection of bacteria and fungus. Not surprisingly, this seems to be a common problem for surfers in South America. The water is questionable at the best of times in Huanchaco, but when rain coupled with a nearby eroding garbage dump spew into the ocean it leaves something to be desired. We talked to lots of surfers that gave loads of preventive suggestions, but in the end I have been utilizing drops for ‘swimmer’s ear’ and relying on my trusty naturopathic ear drops from Clear Health Naturopathic Clinic.

 

Putting the Trooper to work! Boards on the roof, and boards on the bed!

Iain: When the swell eventually picked up Huanchaco became unsurfable so we went to Pacasmayo which can hold waves over 20 foot. When we got there our international surf crew was already suited up and ready to tackle the big waves. Our surf crew consists of Benjamin from Germany, Nico from France, James from England, Juhsi from Finland, Danny and Kelly from the US, and Andrew from Australia. We all met in Huanchaco and had been hanging out for the last few weeks. We paddled out and had the break all to ourselves. The waves were AMAZING!!! Best waves of my life hands down. Even Andrew from Australia agreed. The second wave I caught was the best/longest wave of my life--after about 20 high speed turns and over half a kilometer long I could hardly stand on my board. After the second day of the surfing shenanigans out I became dehydrated and exhausted and caught I what we called ‘surf fever’. I lost my appetite and sweat through the night. After a few gallons of water I felt much better just in time to catch a stomach bug. This happened right before another good swell which the UN surf crew decided to go to the ‘longest left hand wave in the world’, Chicama. So in the heat of the moment I self prescribed antibiotics and in 6 hours left perfect (with the help of ‘doct-rents’Marjorie andTony). Chicama was beautiful. The long perfectly shaped waves reeled along for hundreds of meters. Not as big as Pacasmayo but a great place for practice.

Iain surf a  'Bomb' in Pacasmayo

Iain, Danny, and Nico in Pacasmayo

Iain surfing another epic wave in Pacasmayo. This wave holds like this for hundreds of meters.

The UN crew checking the surf in Pacasmayo

CHICAMA!

Our view of Chicama from the bed of the trooper

One of the points in Chicama

We are currently back in Huanchaco and will probably be here for a few more days for learning waves for me. Unfortunately for me Chicama didn’t work out too well even when the swell died down because I got sick AGAIN! This time: fever, sweats and congestion, and muscle pain. No rest for the wicked in South America! We will finish recovering, and have decided to make our way north and soon head to Ecuador. Our latest ambition is to try and trade the car for a trip to the Galapagos Islands. More on that soon.