Tuesday 17 January 2012

Breakdown, Repair, Play and Repeat

Trooper TLC

The car misadventures continued as we got back to Coyhaqiue after the Glaciar. Check it out: while Iain was parking the car near a mechanic to fix the exhaust pipe that disconnected during the bumpy drive on the way back from Tranquilo, he backed into a tree with gusto.  After not having found a new door Iain managed to fix it using a left-over 2”x4” we happened to have kicking around, a two tone ratchet strap, and some physics. The door was so dented the it wouldn’t even close as first—esthetics were the least of our worries.
Parque Nacional Quelat
Finished with southern Chile and ready to get a move on, our next stop was Parque Nacional Queulat. We stumbled upon this magnificent place while driving through and the weather was cooperative enough for us to hike around for a bit. We climbed into Rio de las Cascades where about six waterfalls surround the valley.  It is always nice to get out and move to break up the driving so we were both happy to get some fresh air that afternoon.  














I spy a Megan



Hot springs to ourselves..
The weather started out grey and turned into pouring rain the next day and this was our first real hard day of rain. The real bummer to the rain was mainly the fact that our cooking setup requires the back door of the trooper to be left open which is definitely not conducive to all weather cooking conditions. The other regret in the rain was not purchasing the single tarp we’d seen on the trip in Coyhaique. A lesson that has taught us if you see something you might need, buy it immediately—you may never see it again. The positive aspect of all the rain was it was an awesome day to go to some natural hot springs.
Nesting

As we attempted to get out of the rain we drove into Argentina again back to El Bolson. We continued on Argentina’s northward bound highways until crossing back into Chile again near Pucon. My main aim here was to 1) eat a fish taco 2) get more eco-friendly conditioner from Siempreverde.The return back to Pucon was better than expected since it was refreshing that we knew area, and could find a good campground to wash laundry and go out for an afternoon of rafting with Politur.
Rafting in Pucon



Every piece of clothing we own

Waiting for this to be repaired
When we were finished in Pucon we drove to Pichilemu in hopes to find me a surf board. We only spent two nights back in the old stomping ground probably because it was insanely busy and very expensive (if anyone tells you Chile is a cheap place to travel don’t believe them).  During our last visit we had a water front Cabana for about $40, while this time around we stayed at a hostel for $60. The summer season is only about two months of the year, so prices are sky-high. Despite the hoards of people, we did get me a used surf board from Manzana 54. I think Iain was more excited than me to make the purchase, but I’m already feeling attached to the ol’ Bic and want to bring the beast home. Iain is a very good teacher and we got out a couple of times before deciding there would probably be better surf with fewer people further north. However, that is easier said than done in the Trooper.

We left Pichilemu hoping to get to Vina del Mar or Valpariso, but instead are currently in San Antonio because we stopped to get a radiator cap and once again Iain noticed the vehicle was smoking. Turns out we need a new head gasket. Hopefully it will be done tomorrow morning and we’ll be surfing by night. Keep your fingers crossed for us!

Friday 6 January 2012

Poland to the rescue! Broke down on Route 40.
Local traffic on Route 40
After getting our fair share of fresh air and drinkable river water in El Chalten we decided to move on upwards to start to long trip back up Argentina and Chile. We were sitting on the fence about what route to take back, but read about El Puesto www.elpuesto.cl and a trip they do up on Glaciar Explorades. This seemed like the next best destination so we took the notorious route 40 in Argentina back up from southern Patagonia. Route 40 is known for its barren and bleak dirt road and lack of service stations in addition to the cavos de los manos—caves with prehistoric handprints lining the walls. This road proved to be both barren and bleak, two things we had seen a little too much of driving west to east and back again to get a glimpse of those penguins. At one point we had to drive 70 km out of the way to get gas and Iain noticed the engine temperature slowly rising. As it turned out, the radiator cap was lost somewhere along the bumpy dirt road and we needed some creativity and metal to make it the rest of the way to our fuel up location. We have been so lucky to have had assistance at pretty much every potentially disastrous situation so far, and this event turned out to be no different. This time our help turned out to be a camper full of Polish travelers who happened to be mechanically savvy. With everybody brainstorming, a new radiator cap was created using: a tin can lid, a loonie which was hammered to increase its size, some wire, and of course duct tape. We arrived to the gas station with no problems 30 km later and found a new radiator cap too! After an hour or two back into our drive the new radiator cap stop working properly and we had to modify it accordingly.


Finished product

Rejected from Chile--preparing to varnish
After jumping through that hoop of fire, we made it to Los Antiguos, the last town before crossing into Chile. Feeling really awesome about getting back into Chile and ready to get on that glacier, we stopped at the boarder ready to keep moving. After a tedious wait in line and claiming our fruits and vegetables we went out to get inspected (Chile has relatively strict regulations in this regard and they are much more thorough in their searches compared to Argentina). Turns out, they inspected a little bit more rigorously than we expected, telling us our beloved bed frame needed to bite the dust if we wanted to enter. Apparently our wood was no good because it wasn’t varnished and there was no way they were going to let us through. So back we went to Los Antiguos to spend the afternoon varnishing….


Iain trying a new look
The twisty road to Coyhaique

The following day, they did let us in and we passed through Chile Chico and we went onwards to Coyhaique were we spent a very uneventful New Year’s Eve. Yesterday we backtracked to Tranquilo to and did a 6.5 hour stint up and around the Glaciar Explorades. We thought the experience might be similar to climbing on the moon—rolling mounds of white snow and ice everywhere. Well worth the effort and a little extra driving. 




Glacier Explorades

Tallest peak south of 40 degrees, Monte San Valentin (4080m)




Iain climbing around