Tsunamis and 'Poonamis': The Peruvian Surf Experience

What happened to going to Asia? We blew right past it, looking for the best surf stop that we could settle into for a few days. Continuing north turned into a last minute decision that we should spend the night in Lima (population 8.5 million!!!!). Fortunately for us, we drove into posh and pretty Miraflores unscathed although the traffic was insane. We later heard of a group of Australian guys getting pulled by the traffic into the dirty depths of the city, getting their surf boards robbed, obtaining dog bites (which later meant rabies shots) and hiring a juice selling man to be their body guard to keep their rental safe while guiding them to the panamerican highway. Thankfully none of those things occurred although we did have our first police ‘incident’ the next day. Driving out of Lima was a relatively simple task since Iain google mapped our route, memorized landmarks and has a pretty awesome sense of direction. Once we got onto the multilane highway we were quickly pulled over by the police. The old fart looked like a dirt bag from the beginning and told us we had committed a few infractions. Firstly, he tried to tell us we weren’t allowed to change lanes…then he accused Iain of not using lights (which were on the whole time), then say that it was illegal to have tinted windows (which is also untrue), and finally saying our paperwork wasn’t valid.  He told us the price for all our illegalities was 200 soles—a ridiculous price. In the end, we told him our hostel told us not to carry much cash because there were a lot of robberies in Lima and that if he would kindly escort us to his office we could pay with visa. They didn’t like that very much, but were happy with 10 U.S. dollars, 10 soles, but didn’t want the 4 U.S. one dollar bills. That was it—we’d been swindled by the police for the first time in South America! There was something very unsettling about accepting that the police force in unreliable and shady. Thankfully, while continuing the drive north that day, we were pulled over several other times and no one else scammed us. We spent the night in a tiny beach town of Tortugas.

Megan catching a wave in Huanchaco

Iain surfing in Huanchaco 

The next day we went through Trujillo and on to Huanchaco. We shopped around for a suitable place to park the car and sleep and ended up discovering Surf Hostal Lily We ended up liking Lily so much we stayed for awhile. Huanchaco is a nice size town and had a bay perfect for learning as well as a good place for Iain to surf. For eight dollars a night we were able to park and sleep in our car, have access to internet, bathrooms, showers, the kitchen and common places.  They also have a shaper (surf board maker) on-site, and have great deals on board rentals and equipment. We rented me a longer board and I immediately started having more success on it. The hostal has also been great for us to meet more people and finally relax into the routine of surfing, sleeping and eating. A small crew of guests came together at Lily that resulted in fantastic group meals and surf excursions.

Kelly and Iain making pancakes for the Lily crew

Board repair from a Tofino ding

Sunset sessions in Huanchaco

While at Lily, we endured an event that will surely be remembered. This event was coined as the ‘Poonami’—similar to a Tsunami, but instead of water there was poo. To explain more clearly, there was a problem with the sewage system the day following Carnival, and a flood occurred in the whole backyard area of the hostel. The ‘poo water’ kept rising, and passing in certain areas was difficult. It was so extreme, the smell was practically unbearable and people needed to take refuge in alternate rooms. The problem was not only isolated to Lily, but turned out to be an issue throughout the city. It was even rumored that the Mayor’s residence became flooded. It took about two days to clear up the problem, and since then it has been discussed and remembered as an important historical event at Lily. 

The ‘Poonami’ likely contributed to the illness that occurred afterward.  People started dropping like flies around the time of the poonami from stomach upset and vomiting. Last week I started getting sick mid-surf, threw up once in the water and then spent about 7 hours vomiting approximately every 20 minutes. The worst part of the virus was that we were sleeping in the car, the best part was that we had a pot I could use to be sick into. Luckily for me the grossest/ most uncomfortable part of it was over by the following morning, and with the help of Iain, gatorade, and maintaining a horizontal position I got better pretty fast.

The real kicker with the flu was I was also combating an ear infection from a few days before. We ended up having to go to nearby Trujillo to see a doctor that reported I had an infection of bacteria and fungus. Not surprisingly, this seems to be a common problem for surfers in South America. The water is questionable at the best of times in Huanchaco, but when rain coupled with a nearby eroding garbage dump spew into the ocean it leaves something to be desired. We talked to lots of surfers that gave loads of preventive suggestions, but in the end I have been utilizing drops for ‘swimmer’s ear’ and relying on my trusty naturopathic ear drops from Clear Health Naturopathic Clinic.

 

Putting the Trooper to work! Boards on the roof, and boards on the bed!

Iain: When the swell eventually picked up Huanchaco became unsurfable so we went to Pacasmayo which can hold waves over 20 foot. When we got there our international surf crew was already suited up and ready to tackle the big waves. Our surf crew consists of Benjamin from Germany, Nico from France, James from England, Juhsi from Finland, Danny and Kelly from the US, and Andrew from Australia. We all met in Huanchaco and had been hanging out for the last few weeks. We paddled out and had the break all to ourselves. The waves were AMAZING!!! Best waves of my life hands down. Even Andrew from Australia agreed. The second wave I caught was the best/longest wave of my life--after about 20 high speed turns and over half a kilometer long I could hardly stand on my board. After the second day of the surfing shenanigans out I became dehydrated and exhausted and caught I what we called ‘surf fever’. I lost my appetite and sweat through the night. After a few gallons of water I felt much better just in time to catch a stomach bug. This happened right before another good swell which the UN surf crew decided to go to the ‘longest left hand wave in the world’, Chicama. So in the heat of the moment I self prescribed antibiotics and in 6 hours left perfect (with the help of ‘doct-rents’Marjorie andTony). Chicama was beautiful. The long perfectly shaped waves reeled along for hundreds of meters. Not as big as Pacasmayo but a great place for practice.

Iain surf a  'Bomb' in Pacasmayo

Iain, Danny, and Nico in Pacasmayo

Iain surfing another epic wave in Pacasmayo. This wave holds like this for hundreds of meters.

The UN crew checking the surf in Pacasmayo

CHICAMA!

Our view of Chicama from the bed of the trooper

One of the points in Chicama

We are currently back in Huanchaco and will probably be here for a few more days for learning waves for me. Unfortunately for me Chicama didn’t work out too well even when the swell died down because I got sick AGAIN! This time: fever, sweats and congestion, and muscle pain. No rest for the wicked in South America! We will finish recovering, and have decided to make our way north and soon head to Ecuador. Our latest ambition is to try and trade the car for a trip to the Galapagos Islands. More on that soon.